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Showing posts with label Mexico Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico Climbing. Show all posts

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Safe Trips and Great Deals

Everybody is looking for the best deal these days. You hear that all the time, but when have you not. Mexico has always been on the tip of everyone's tongue when this expression comes up regarding winter vacations. Recently I have not heard Mexico mentioned as much. Is this because the vacation options have become more expensive?


The negative publicity that Mexico has received in regard to violence related to drug and people trafficking is warranted in some areas of the country. Taking safety precautions is something us climber know all about. We also know that letting fear rule us is a sure fire path to regret.


At EPICS and La Posada El Potrero Chico we have set up a system that will maximize you vacation time and dollars. We have had clients come from New York City to climb for the weekend. All you need is a little money, a plane ticket to Monterrey (MTY) and a passport. We take care of the transportation to and from the airport, your accommodations, your food (if you prefer),water, and your climbing partner/certified guide. What else could one need?


Check out your options: www.elpotrerochico.com.mx

Sunday, January 10, 2010

2010 El Potrero Chico Clean Up



Imagine please a world where all consumables were packaged with bio degradable wrapping: corn husks, banana leaves, etc. In this world all the glass, plastic and aluminum were so valuable that they were scavenged through till nothing was left. This was Mexico as of fifty years ago. That all changed very quickly.


Now people still have the "use it and throw it on the ground" mentality that came from eating everything from corn husks. The adults have it, the teachers have it, the police have it, the kids have it; everyone. This is not deep rural Mexico we are talking about either. People in our big town and neighboring large city throw their plastic, glass, aluminum, and paper on the ground along with their: sinks, tires, mattresses, and corn cobs.


When I first came here to Hidalgo and El Potrero Chico in 2005 I was appalled, as I think most gringos are, when they see something so far outside their paradigm. For me, seeing a child throw a bag on the ground in front of their mother and a police officer, who should be stopping this child, is just as shocking as seeing someone prepare dog meat for stir fry. Latin America is truly different from the United States in this way; the littering I mean. So I set to work to clean up El Potrero Chico.


I organized the first EPC trash clean up in 2005. We have a El Potrero Clean up every year. They have been picking up momentum over the past three years. This year we, El Potrero Chico International School and La Posada, had the support of a fresh municipal administration. The town of Hidalgo provided trash bags, a truck, workers, flyers, and most of all; moral support. There were twenty kids from secondary school participating. In exchange for their help EPICS set up top ropes to give them a taste of why all of us crazy mountain climbing gringos flock to their town. The idea is to show the youth that recreation and a clean environment go hand and hand. The mayor came as well as the director of culture and participated whole heartedly. Many climbers joined in and really gave back to the place they love.


El Potrero Chico will be trashed next year when I return. It's OK. I will have another trash clean up. My hope, and the reason for all of this, is that in fifteen years when these kids are adults we will not need a clean up every year. Maybe then we can start talking with them about simple little things like recycling***. For now I'll be happy if everyone can embrace putting their trash in one place; the land fill not El Potrero Chico.


*** If anyone wants to come and set up a recycling program the infrastructure is not far away in Monterrey. They just need a collection center, transportation, and local support/education. I just don't have the time or energy to do everything. I would love and embrace this action and would lend to it as much energy and local knowledge as I could.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Winter rock climbing in a safe little corner of Mexico


As the head guide here in EPC I don't really see much snow through out the year. Many of my friends are winter guides in places like the Tetons and New Hampshire. They can be quick to poke fun at the fact that I am a southerner and do not like the cold. Don't get me wrong; I can tough it out with the best of them. I just don't like to and I know it. So I avoid winter. I come to El Potrero Chico to guide winter rock climbing. I first came here 5 years ago on vacation, and now I live here half the year. I never feel threatened like the media would like me to feel. I always feel welcome, strong, well fed, and most importantly; warm.
I love all of the winter rock climbing down here in El Potrero. The classics that I guide never get old: Space Boys (5.10d), Estrellita (5.9), Pancho Villa Rides Again and many others. I also like to pick a fitness project every year like: Mother Ship Connection (5.13) or Hombre de Rifle (5.13a). I really like to stay fit during the winter and El Potrero is the best place for me to do it. I could go to Spain or China or Thai Land, but why? Mexico is close, easy and welcoming. The bolts are safe because we monitor and replace them as needed. There is a rescue service that we, El Potrero Chico Climbing School provide free of cost. There are even free self rescue courses offered every month. The camping is easy inexpensive, clean and safe. The food is sooooo good. There is a real family atmosphere around La Posada. Also ITS WARM! I love winter rock climbing in Mexico.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

New FREE Programs and Seminars for 2009/10




Every month this year we will be offering a variety of seminars for free to the qualified public. The first of these will be a free self rescue seminar focused on teaching competent multi-pitch climbers to be safer. Most of what we will be covering in this day long course will be "preventative medicine". After the free course on the Third Thursday of every month we will offer an inexpensive two day self rescue course at a cost of $50usd a day with a maximum 5:1 ratio.

The second program we
will be offering for free is for local Mexicans. La Posada/ EPICS have been trying for years to find interest in the town for a kids camp, but so far it has been a stretch for parents to hand over their young ones. However what has worked has been free days of community climbing. On the second Saturday, or El Sabado Segundo, of every month we will offer a free day of climbing to anyone in the community who wants to give climbing a try. We will be looking for volunteers in the climbing community. If this is something you would like to do on your vacation please contact us and sign up. There will be a free lunch or diner offered in appreciation of you help.

Programs will start in November. Please contact via email (
guides@elpotrerochico.com.mx) if you are interested in participating or if you would like to donate to our causes of corroborating a safer climbing community and building bridges between the climbing community and the community of Hidalgo, NL.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Free Self Rescue Course



This year EPICS offered a 3 day self rescue course to qualified applicants. 13 people showed up including 4 locals from Hidalgo. The idea was to train climbers who could no afford expensive professional instruction. The great thing that happened is we ended up training locals who can be called upon to preform rescues in the event of an emergency. Everybody learned a lot and was very appreciative. We will be offering at least one a month next season. Please contact the school (guides@elpotrerochico.com.mx) for info about dates.

Another Great seaon in El Potrero Chico


As the director here at EPICS I was out of touch with many of our clients this year. I spent the season alpine climbing and festering in a tent in Southern Patagonia. However I did have a couple clients whom I climbed with and like a lot. We climbed some great stuff like Time Wave Zero in 5 hours, Space Boys, Treasures of the Sierra Madre, Estrellita, and the Spires. We are looking forward to a great season next year. We are offering a 10% discount for booking 4 months or more in advance. Mike, David, Peter... Thanks for a great March!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Jack Osbourne Comes to El Potrero




This May a British production group came to El Potrero Chico in order to film a big wall accent. They used La Posada as a home base and El Potrero Chico International School as there local guides and expert teachers. The show they were filming is called Adrenaline Junkies starring Jack Osbourn. The goal was to get Jack, Craig David and Emma Griffith up a rather large objective called Space Boys. This being a 330M 5.10+ made it a hard objective for Craig and Emma who were beginners. La Posada provided the best service a film company could ask for including three meals a day and snacks. EPICS provide two guides who were the teachers, the muscle, and the North American voice of climbing on the show. The whole thing went off with out any bad hitches. It wasn't always pretty, but I won't ruin the show.
For the same instruction Jack gets go to: www.ElPotreroChico.com.mx

Sunday, June 29, 2008

El Potrero Chico Climbing School; Colorado


Colorado offers a great variety of climbing from granite to sandstone and of course our favorite... limestone. Here is Matt Peer Climbing with El Potrero Chico International School outside of Mexico. This crag out side of Colorado Springs offers great 5.4-5.10 terrain to hone slab and crack climbing techniques.

Climbing Mexico; Candel Cave



La Cueva de las Candelas is a tourist attraction. They would never let you bolt this thing in the States. Good thing it isn't in the States. The routes are hard and well protected. Some are steep some are wicked steep and some are horizontal along the stalactite covered ceiling. The camping is in a cow pasture an hour and some north of San Luis Potosi. The cave is right next door to the field. There are some easier zones near by and also some crazy volcanic bouldering. This is a great stop on the way down to Mexico city because it is located only 20 minutes off the high way to San Luis Potosi.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

The Best way to learn to climb; from a guide


Ashley and Katie contacted us because they had never climbed outside. They thought, as more people may begin to realize, that the best way to learn to climb is to take a forty day trip The best way to start that trip is to hire a guide to teach you the ropes. Now these girls can climb, scaling difficult boulder problems is not a problem. When it came to roping up and pitching out meter after meter they recognized a problem. Coming to an area for so long to learn how to climb one can be lead a stray; destined to spend 3/4 of the trip leaning the wrong things and the other 1/4 trying to correct the information. They forsaw this and hired us to teach them the ropes. In two days our guide Beckett Honicker tought them all the skills needed to climb multi-pitch bolted climbs.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Space Boys on her first day


Space Boys in an impressive route. Generally it is the first one that people stop at in the canyon. They ask "can I climb that?" It comes off, at first, as massive. Once the first 400 feet are tackled in two LONG 5.9 pitches the same person will say "oh we won't even be late for dinner". The subsequent pitches are 10a, 10d, 10b, 9, 9. Seven pitches and 1100 feet later sitting on top of the summit spire one reflects "there is no way this would be a grade three anywhere else in the world. What a good rock climb!"
Julie Schultz arrived in the morning at 11:00 AM and still managed to, with guide Beckett Honicker, climb this Mexico super classic and still be on time for dinner.